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SANDY'S RAM
AIR/COLD INDUCTION SYSTEM-WHAT IT CAN DO FOR YOU
Obtain greater throttle response and torque without compromising the
appearance of your car.
By taking advantage of stock components through better breathing and air
cooling to the motor's intake system.
Makes more linear torque and horsepower at high RPM at highway speeds.
This system can also enhance low RPM throttle response.
FIRST, TO GIVE CREDIT WHERE CREDIT IS DUE:
Thanks to: Andris Skulte (skulte@skulte.com) for the whole concept.
BACKGROUND:
This really was relatively easy to do, but, the devil is in the final
fitting, which will vary a bit with each car due to varying assembly
tolerances.
I started with Andris's concept, but, had a hard time finding just the right
flex duct to fit around the bottom of the cut off air boxes. So I tried to
get some large diameter galvinized adjustable elbows, which can be rotated
into a variety of very nice 90 degree large radius bends, to into a straight
tube. Unfortunately, the diameters were way too large to fit into the nose
of the car. I went back to Home Depot to return everything (their great
about stuff like that--no questions asked). Ok, time to regroup. I sat back
for a day, then went to another Home Depot and really took my time to look
around. I made a cardboard cut out of one of the panel air filters and
brought it with me. I looked at flex tubing, and then I started looking at
stuff like registers and reducers and small adjustable galv. elbows. I found
about $35.00 in bits and pieces in non flexing, fairly short, metal air
ducting parts that seemed almost custom made for this application.
TEST VEHICLE:
Model: 1986 IROC-Z28
Eng.: 350 CID, 9.5:1, TPI (8 deg. advance, 2 over stock)
Trans.: BW T-5 5spd. Manual
Axle: 2.73:1 Posi. Stock
Prev. Mods: K & N filter Panels, Cat. By-Pass, Amsoil Lubricants and Oil
Filter, MAF screens removal
ADVANTAGES:
Decrease air temperature to engine intake which can increase static horse
power
Very low cost compared to overall effectiveness
Possible reduction in fuel octane requrement
Can be accomplished with moderate technical knowledge
If something gets pounded, replacement cost is virtually nothing
DISADVANTAGES:
Hangs kind of low, especially with stack boots attached; gotta be a lot more
concerned about entering driveway aprons, speed bumps, raised street drains,
small animal strikes, very rough roads and parking lot curbs.
Time required to seal everything up, finding and picking up the bits and
pieces
Shouldn't drive with stack boots in snow more than 5 " deep. the snow might
enter and plug the air inlets (anyone driving this kind of car in weather
like that is a bit daft anyway-but, it is a possible dissadvantage)
There is a remote chance of water being forced into the inlet, going past
the filters, MAF and throttlebody and being sucked into the engine.
If the system gets pounded, there is a remote possibility of damage to the
radiator, if a raised drain, say, catches on the bottom edge of the duct
work. The metal of the ducts is fairly malleable (soft) and, hopefully,
shouldn't cause significant damage.
There is every possibility that this system might not do anything for you
and possibly even decrease performance (though, I can't see how, but, again,
I only have my backside to tell me what's going on). So, the worst case, you
blew maybe less than forty bucks and some time. At the very very worst, you
might have to get a new lower air box assembly (or glue the cut off pieces
back on--not recommended, though).
Possibly more intake roar and odd acoustic resonances from the engine
compartment. Mines' not bad at all, really. At this point, it doesn't seem
significantly louder than stock.
DISCLAIMER: (Hopefully, a bit of truth):
Testing:
Obviously, without properly calibrated dynos and other such items, I can not
say with technically backed assurance that all this really works. What I can
say is, one friend of mine who owns a 1987 Buick Grand National /w
inter-cooler and Flow Master Exhaust, thinks my car feels 'respectably' fast
now, compared to when he drove it stock. He seemed impressed at the great
low end torque and nice flat power band through 5,000 RPM. He liked being
able to accelerate from 20 MPH in 4rth with smoothness. He said he noticed
that overall engine operation seemed smoother and far more responsive to
pedal movement.
One real test is in the air inlet temperature drop. Originally, I needed a
minimum of 92 octane fuel to prevent 'pinging.' Due to a seemingly
substantial drop in air temperature at the ducted inlets, I can now safely
run 87 octane with 2 degrees advance over stock. Soon, I will do a coolant
by-pass on the throttlebody. It would seem reasonable to assume a further
minimized demand for higher octane fuel, especially in summer driving.
Even without a RAM effect, just dropping the inlet air temperature can
result in a significant power boost (1% HP increase per 3 degree F.
reduction in air temperature--Ref.: www.ozemail.com.au.), especially for GM
'80s motors, which, typically run at high temperatures for pollution
reduction.
TOOLS REQUIRED:
Drill with 1/8 bit or there abouts
Phillips or straight blade screw driver (depends on the hardware on hand)
7mm nut driver
Dremel tool with cut off discs, de-burring bits.
A Pair of Tin Snips (This REALLY helps)
PARTS REQUIRED:
(4)Small machine screws, split locking washers and nuts each; minimum
(1) Roll of duct tape
(2) Rectangular register to 6" dia. round outlet Part #ST06 (6" x 8" x 6")
(2) Round reducers 6" into 4" dia. Part #26R-6 x 4
(2) Adjustable 4" dia. elbows Part # 890E4
(2) Optional 6" X 10" x 4" dia. Stack Boots (sku: 050206930021)
shown in final assembly photographs, but, not on scans Also note that Home
Depot will drop vendors on a whim and the above part/SKU #s might not be
available in your area. Then, do what I did and get similar bits by bringing
one of your air filter panels with you. I tried to include as much info on
each piece as possible to make matchups as easy as possible.
PROCEDURE:
DAY 1
Loosen clamp at top air box to MAF connection so separation is possible
Remove top clam shell of air box assembly (see owners manual) and put it
some place safe
Remove air filters
Remove (4) 7mm screws at front of air box
Remove (pop up) (3) plastic push pins holding down the back of the lower box
Carefully lift up and remove the lower air box
Remove plastic two piece air panel just below by removing 2-3 plastic push
pins
and (3) metal clips at the front of the panel. Now look down to see the
glorious view of the garage floor or pavement. You should also see the front
of the radiator, the lower rubber air skirt and, with closer inspection, the
very backs of the fog light housings.
Use the jig or hack saw to cut the bottoms of the air boxes off, leaving
about 2" of plastic to help capture the rectangular air register piece.
Use the dremel tool with cut off disc to finish the job if needed, use the
de-burring bit to smooth out the edges. I for now, elected to leave in the
center lower support for the filters, just to play it safe. I may remove it
later, though.
At this point, you will need to play around with the elbow joint adjustments
and the fit of the rectangular register and reducer to set up several 'test
fits' before deciding on a permanent fitting. Do one side at a time.
Use the dremel tool to help cut away small areas in front to allow the
rectangular register to fit in flush. The metal on the duct is fairly
malleable, so you can 'dimple' it in, if needed.
Now is a good time to fit the reducer and adjustable elbow onto the outlet
of the register. Use a few small pieces of duct tape to help hold everything
together temporarily
When you've decided on the correct positioning of the register, reducer and
adjustable elbow, getting a nice 90 degree bend into the wind, remove the
whole air box and first ram air side assembly
Secure the register with at least (2) screws, washers and nuts through the
sides of the register into the left over plastic rim from cutting off the
air box bottoms and seal around the area with a liberal amount of duct tape.
Its important to get as good of air seal as possible throught the entire
system so pressure is allowed to build at low engine speeds.
Secure the reducer and elbow connections with at least one or two wraps of
duct tape. Seal the register top to the air box bottom with the duct tape.
The less leakage, the greater the air pressure can be built up and the more
power.
Re fit air box and first ram air assembly back into the nose of the car. If
your done for the day, replace the (4) 7mm screws, the (3) plastic push
pins, the air filters and upper clam shell air box.
Re-tighten the clamp on the MAF, making certain that the connection ridges
are inside the clamp. Tighten the clamp, but, not too tight. You might crack
the sensor housing.
Time to take a break and get a snack, do push ups, get coffee, change
diapers, make money, whatever. If you don't have time to do the other side,
don't sweat it. Continue when your comfortable and have the time to do a
good job.
DAY 2
Basically, repeat everything you did on day one, only better and faster,
'cause now you better know what to do.
At this point, you might just want to take a ride on the highway. You should
feel at least a modest improvement in throttle response, especially going
over 60 MPH. The sound of the intakes is also very nice, too. There seems to
be a 'tuned' effect using these particular pieces.
OPTIONS:
AS TO THE REMOVED AIR DAM:
Ok, right now, you've got the two piece air dam left over. This one's up to
you. I've elected to leave it off for now. However, I might install it
later. If you elect to reinstall it, use a marker or chalk to mark out the
areas where the duct work will go through.
Use the Dremel tool and cut off disc to modify those areas. This might take
a few tries to get everything aligned correctly.
RAM AIR INLETS:
One option is to attach 6" x 10" x 4" galvanized registers ("stack boot"
050206930021) to the adjustable elbow inlet pipes so the openings of these
are just below the front valance panel (spoiler). They cost $3.64 each and
can be secured with duct tape and 4" band clamps ($0.98/each). These should
funnel even more air into the engine, further cooling the air charge and
providing more positive pressure at the inlet.
That's it. Now is a good time to get the 52mm throttlebody upgrade or do a
cat back to further enhance the newly freed up intake.
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